Build Track's Classic Tennessee longrifle kit,
in traditional iron, or brass,
with 13/16" octagon barrel in .36, .40, or .45 caliber

Build Track's
Classic Tennessee longrifle,
easy to assemble rifle kit,
36 or 42" octagon barrel,
traditional iron, plain or fancy maple stock




Often referred to as a Tennessee style, this attractive South Mountain percussion longrifle is trimmed in iron, and stocked in plain maple. Original Tennessee flint rifles were often equipped with imported locks. This Germanic style lock has the long pointed tail, raised lock plate with chamfered edges, and filed molding across the tail. Originally designed as a flint lock, many longrifles and locks were converted to percussion during the 1825 - 1845 era.

Fine locks, set triggers, and good wood are standard features of the so-called Tennessee rifles, even though the furniture may be hand forged iron, or abbreviated in "poor boy" fashion. Our top view shows the short straight tang, of the breech plug. The classic longrifle square cheekpiece is designed to angle recoil away from the shooters cheek.

No toeplate was fitted to this well finished rifle. A toeplate is included in our Tennessee rifle kit, and it has a very simple Tennessee style finial at front. A single lock bolt retains the lock on this nice Southern percussion longrifle. This rifle was finished without a sideplate. Our suggested kit includes a Tennessee style sideplate, to match the toeplate.

Order our Classic Tennessee longrifle kit, and use your imagination. Plain or fancy maple, simple or decorated, with double set triggers, many options are available. Each part is offered separately, so you can create your own custom rifle. Select the parts you need for your project in traditional iron (steel) furniture. We recommend plain maple, but fancy maple was often used on original rifles.

Colerain Barrel Company offers .36, .40, or .45 caliber in 13/16" straight octagon size. Colerain straight octagon barrels are threaded to accept the breech plug.

Colerain rifle barrels are the favorite choice of today's best muzzle loading gun makers, because knowledgeable shooters demand Colerain's accuracy, inside and outside. Founded by two entrepreneurs, Scott Keller and Scott Kelly were tutored by Bob Paris, the famous rifle barrel maker who was first to perfect the technique for production of correct swamped barrels.

Colerain rifle barrels are cut rifled, with fancy radius groove rifling geometry, in correct twist rates for round balls:

Colerain rifle barrels are drilled from solid steel. Each barrel has six "round bottom" grooves, called "radius groove rifling". Colerain eliminates the sharp inside corner that accumulates fouling. Radius groove rifling cutters are a bit more expensive to make, but Colerain's customers agree that the accuracy, easy loading, and easy cleaning are worth the cost.

Green Mountain barrels are 13/16" octagon, in 36" or 42" length, threaded for a breech plug, in .40, or .45 caliber. Green Mountain muzzle loading rifle barrels are machined from high quality American made bar stock, A.I.S.I. 1137 modified, stress relieved, annealed, certified rifle barrel quality steel. All barrels are drilled from solid stock, reamed to a high degree of smoothness, then optically checked for straightness. Very close tolerances are maintained. Diameters vary less than .0002" within any bore.

Cut Rifling Specifications:



Stocks, our classic Tennessee fullstock has a buttstock with a straight comb, unlike our earlier stocks, a bit thicker than the very thin late Tennessee stocks. This stock will look great, when trimmed in iron. Pre-inlet for our slim 13/16" octagon 42" barrel, large Siler percussion lock, our #TR-DST-4 or 6 triggers, our #TG-SM-1-I triggerguard, a straight tang plug, and drilled for a 3/8" ramrod. Trigger reach may be adjusted up to 15", with 4-1/2" drop. Butt end is 5 x 1-1/2", not yet cut for buttplate.

We offer a complete set of iron (steel) furniture to fit this rifle. Furniture includes the buttplate, triggerguard, toeplate, forward and entry ramrod pipes, sideplate, ramrod, and ramrod tip. As cast, the castings need to have the casting gates removed by filing or grinding, and must be polished, then drilled for mounting screws, as needed. We include 5/16" ramrod and rod pipes for the smaller caliber, .32 and .36, rifles. They can easily be used in the 3/8" drilled ramrod hole in the stock.

Triggerguard, This style of Southern Mountain triggerguard is often decorated with a engraved 'V' pattern at the rear junction of the grip rail and bow. The triggerguard is shaped with a long tapered rear finial and curl at the end of the grip rail, common features with those found in Tennessee, the Carolinas, and the Virginias. The triggerguard has a overall length of 10-3/4". This guard has a very long bow to accommodate either our #TR-DST-4 with straight front trigger, or #TR-DST-6 with curled front trigger.

Ideal for a percussion longrifle, this Germanic style lock has the long pointed tail, raised lock plate with chamfered edges, and filed molding across the tail, styles used during the 1750 - 1780 flint lock era. Originally designed as a flint lock, many longrifles were converted to percussion during the 1825 - 1845 era.

Siler's large cap lock is designed to fit any 13/16" octagon barrel, and uses a 1/2" diameter powder drum.

Patchbox, although not required, a Tennessee iron banana patchbox is correct for this style of rifle. Shown in The Kentucky Rifle by Merrill Lindsay, and typically found in iron. This patchbox is copied from a rifle by J. G. Gross, Sullivan County, Tennessee. Patchbox door spring, and full installation instructions are included. Mount the patchbox with two 6 x 1/2" steel screws. This patchbox is 7-1/4" overall length.

Gunsmithing Labor Options are a popular low cost method of speeding assembly. Our gunsmith can install the plug (#LABOR-BP) front and rear sights (2 #LABOR-DS), and underlugs (3 #LABOR-UL) at small extra cost, with prompt delivery.

#LABOR-BP: Our gunsmith will install your breech plug, in your barrel, with the front face of the breech plug tightly sealed against the inside shoulder of the breech thread, and the barrel maker's name indexed to the bottom flat. Threads are lubricated with Birchwood Casey's Choke Tube Lube anti-seize, so the plug may be removed, even after decades of use. Never remove a breech plug, unless you have a compelling reason. The plug is never removed for cleaning, and should only be removed by a skilled gunsmith, who has the correct tools to avoid marking your polished and finished barrel and plug.

#LABOR-DS: When you buy the sight from us, we will remove any burrs, gates, or parting lines, and hand fit the sight to the dovetail slot, ready for you to finish and use. Many of our rear sights are cast with an oversize base, to allow these to fill oversize slots. It is wise to allow us to trim these to a standard size, before installation in a new barrel. We must install the breech plug before installing sights, rib, or pipes.

Front sight slots are centered 1.5" from muzzle, unless your clearly specify another location. Do not embed special instructions within lengthy text of a letter. Place special instructions immediately after your written order for that item, or in the comment field of our on-line order form.

Rear sight slots are centered 8.5" from the breech end of the barrel (not including plug), unless your clearly specify another location. Do not embed special instructions within lengthy text of a letter. Place special instructions immediately after your written order for that item, or in the comment field of our on-line order form.

#LABOR-UL: When you buy the lugs from us, we will remove any burrs, and hand fit the lug to the dovetail slot, ready for you to finish and use. Allow our gunsmith to determine the best location for lug. Typically these rifles require three lugs. We require the breech plug to be fitted before performing this operation.

We strongly recommend Recreating the American Longrifle, by William Buchele. The late William Buchele was recognized as a true master longrifle maker. But his greatest contribution to muzzle loading must be this book. He shares the step-by-step details of his craft. His work has been enhanced by the editors. This book does not assume that the reader is an expert stock maker, but begins with illustrated explanations of the basic concepts. Buchele shows several alternate approaches to most tasks. This newly revised edition includes full scale plans for a carved flint longrifle, and fullstock flint pistol. Over 250 photos and drawings, within 176 pages, 8-1/2 x 11" format, soft cover.

Discussed in Recreating the American Longrifle, Track's underlug staples are authentic, stronger, easier to install, and they remove less metal than dovetail lugs. Not suitable for thin walled barrels, staples work well for keys, pins, or for supporting a sling swivel.

#TOOL-105-P: Align our double punch with a centerline drawn on the bottom flat of your octagon barrel. Strike it to prick punch the exact spacing for our staples. Very handy for quick and accurate staple location.

Lay your key or pin in the open staple. Measure the staple leg extending above your key or pin. Drill your holes exactly that depth. Select a drill bit to match the staple foot diameter (about 7/64"). We recommend using a drill press. Set a quill stop to avoid drilling too deep. Hole depth determines key slot thickness.

#TOOL-105-S: Insert one end of our staple into your hole, and seat it with a light hammer blow. Place the semi-circular slotted end of this tool around the staple's seated end. Strike it with firm blows, to stake the staple permanently in place. Seat the opposite end, and stake it. Malleable staples allow bending. Stake one end securely, before attempting to seat the other end. Straighten after staking.

#TOOL-DRUM: Use Track's drum drilling jig to install a percussion powder drum on your new rifle barrel, and be assured of perfect alignment. Using this drilling jig is very quick and easy. No file fitting is required to index the nipple to correctly engage the hammer. Never use a washer or shim under your powder drum. Install one of our drums and use this tool to locate and install the nipple threads. After your lock is correctly located, and fully inlet against the barrel's side flat, drill tap and install our undrilled powder drum. Tighten it snugly against the barrel. Lower the hammer on your lock, and draw a line across the face of the drum, showing the proper nipple angle. Remove the barrel and drum assembly from your stock. Slip this tool over the drum. Align it with the line on your drum. Tighten the locking screw, and insert the drill bushing. Using your hand drill and your #3 drill bit, drill a connecting hole into the powder drums center channel. Remove the drill, bushing, and insert our 1/4-28 plug tap. Using a tap handle and cutting oil, thread the hole to accept our 1/4-28 nipple. Finish with our bottom tap. Dismount the drill jig, and proof test your barrel and drum before use. Drill, taps, drum and nipple sold separately.

We also recommend our new catalog, which describes this kit in great detail, explains the options, and shows most individual parts in exact full size photographs. Prices may change, over the years, but the technical data, dimensions, instructions, and precise photos will make this 432 page book an essential too on your work bench.

Gun building is fun! View our prices and options, to select your choice of caliber, wood, and trim. Same day shipment.
Track of the Wolf, Inc.
18308 Joplin St NW
Elk River, MN 55330-1773

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