Not parts from an old kit, our blanks were created to simplify restoration projects. The pan is undercut for your plate, with an over-sized back lug. Grind or mill away your old lug, fit this new pan to your plate, then solder, screw, or weld it in place.
The cock has no hole for the tumbler. Drill and file the square at exactly the desired angle. It should fit tightly on the tumbler. Select a top jaw screw from one of the many kits or locks we offer. Drill the top jaw and cock, and tap it for the top jaw screw. Need a tumbler screw? Advise the screw diameter and pitch when ordering.
Notice the blank frizzen with no pivot hole. A typical location is spotted, but you should run your drill through the hole in the plate, and through the new pan and frizzen, if possible. Order a frizzen screw from a Siler or other lock kit, too.
Drill, polish, and install the frizzen spring to the plate. While soft, you can bend, test, and adjust it. After heating it to cherry red, quench it in warm oil, and temper it in molten pure lead for 30 minutes. If you can't scratch it with a file, tempered it further.
File the frizzen's toe to the desired cam angle point, so it will snap over the frizzen spring, after fitting the spring to the lock plate. File the tail of the frizzen to a curl, point, or flat stop. It was made as a bulb shaped blank for you to finish to your desired shape and angle.
When you are satisfied with your reconverted lock's action, harden the frizzen per Siler kit instructions, or use a hardening compound for best sparking ability.