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Build Track's full stock Hawken Pistol in the style of Jacob and Samuel Hawken, of Saint Louis. Build a fullstock Hawken pistol stocked in curly maple, iron trim and fitted with a wooden ramrod, retained by English style ramrod pipes.

Build Track's flint lock full stock Hawken pistol parts set and replicate one of the rarest frontier accoutrement's. Building a Hawken flint lock pistol requires all the same skills and techniques used to assemble a longrifle. Use of a drill press is recommended. A skilled mentor, as always, can be a invaluable aid in building any rifle or pistol project.

Select a your caliber choice of 15/16" fast twist octagon pistol barrel, wood grade, brass or iron furniture, and L&R John Bailes or R.E. Davis Ketland flint lock to begin your project.

Green Mountain Muzzle Loading Pistol Barrels are machined from high quality American made bar stock, A.I.S.I. 1137 modified, stress relieved, annealed, certified rifle barrel quality steel. All barrels are drilled from solid stock, reamed to a high degree of smoothness, then optically checked for straightness. Very close tolerances are maintained. Diameters vary less than .0002” within any bore.

Cut Rifling Specifications:

• Each pistol barrel has eight lands and grooves.


• Grooves cut .008 to .014” deep, in .54 caliber.


• Twist is 1 turn in 20 inches for .54 caliber.

Your choice between plain or fancy maple, or American black walnut, this Hawken Pistol fullstock is, pre-shaped, inlet for a 15/16” octagon barrel up to 10" long.

The barrel channel is inlet for your 15/16" octagon barrel. This stock will accept barrels up to 10" in length. Not inlet for lock or trigger. Hand inlet the lock and a single, or single set trigger of your choice. Drilled full depth for a 3/8" ramrod. Use this stock to build a fine fullstock Hawken pistol.

Choose between our two recomended flintlocks, the R.E. Davis late style Ketland flintlock, or the choose the fine L&R John Bailes flint lock.

The R.E. Davis late Ketland flint lock #LOCK-LK-F: A highly refined and complex lock, this design incorporates many of the features invented by London’s best gunmakers during the late flint period, prior to 1830.

The “full waterproof pan” is made with rain gutters cut to drain any water away from the pan. The cock’s jaws have been tipped down to throw sparks directly into the pan.

The erect frizzen snaps over a roller bearing on the end of the frizzen spring, which is retained by an inside screw threaded into a blind hole in the bullet shaped spring finial.

Tiny bearing surfaces set the tumbler away from the plate and bridle. A stirrup links the mainspring to the tumbler, a feature sometimes called a “percussion type mainspring” even though it was used on late flint locks. Fitted with a fly, this lock is suitable for use with double set triggers or single set triggers. Select our English style high pivot trigger and plate, which offers a very smooth and light trigger release, without set trigger complexity.

Gray matte finished outside, internal surfaces are bright. Working parts are fitted, polished, adjusted, hardened and tempered. This elegant lock demonstrates the design skills of the famous family of lock makers, for three generations, in Birmingham, England.

The L&R John Bailes flint lock #LOCK-LR-1700: Sometimes called a small Manton, baby Durs Egg, or small English flint lock. This smaller lock is a fine London design, in the style of John Bailes, gunmaker. Correctly used on English pistols, rifles and dainty fowlers of the 1770-1810 period. After about 1780 this improved style of lock is found on American guns, having been smuggled here from England in quantity.

More complex than the small Siler lock, notice that the cock jaws point directly into the semi-waterproof pan. The unusual frizzen flange fits and seals the pan, keeping priming dry. The well designed tumbler and sear have raised bearing rings turned around axles, to minimize friction. Lock makers sometimes call this a “frictionless” or “ghosted” lock, because you can see through its internals, if viewed sideways.

A fly detent is fitted to the tumbler’s mortise, preventing the sear from accidentally engaging the half-cock notch when fired. Suitable for use with plain or set triggers. Similar in size to the small Siler lock, to fit straight or swamped barrels 3/4” to 1” octagon at the breech.

Notice the “cut away” tumbler and “swing out” link, which greatly simplify lock disassembly. As you examine the photographs, notice the tumbler’s lower arm is made to catch the mainspring if the tumbler arm or link should break while being cocked. Indeed, in the early days of metallurgy, this was the “weakest link” in this style of lock. But even if the link fails, this lock will fire its one last shot. Obviously John Bailes, the old London lock maker, was conservative! You can depend of this nice lock to spark well! Primed with a small amount of GOEX FFFFg, it is sure to fire. Don’t cover the vent with priming.

Yes, the photo shows just how tightly the frizzen fits the pan. This lock plate is nicely polished bright, inside. All exterior parts are bead blasted to a matte gray, ready for browning.

Our parts are sold with a flash hole liner, often called a vent, vent liner, or touch-hole liner in 1/4-28 thread. We also offer the Jim Chambers White Lightnin' vent as a option. The special 1/4-32 fine threads allow an extra large concave cavity inside, for use on 13/16" to 1" octagon barrels. Made in the USA, stainless steel, with removable lug for easy installation. Order our #TAP-1/4-32 tap and tap drill, to install 1/4-32 vents.

Concave inside, the White Lightnin' vent liner brings the main powder charge very close to the incandescent heat of the priming flash. Position the vent on the center of the pan, slightly above the pan to frizzen joint, sometimes called the "sunset" position. Covered by the frizzen when closed, the hole is a window centered on the heat of your priming flash, for instant ignition, without the whoosh-bang delay, seen in many flint guns.

Typically only the better quality London made guns were factory fitted with vent liners, but nearly all flint guns were later fitted with vent liners, after the vent hole in the barrel became worn from flash erosion, corrosion, or the aggressive use of a vent pick.

Choose between the simple "non-set" single trigger and plate or the single set trigger pictured above.

#TR-HP-P: The plate has a boss for a tang screw and an acorn or pineapple finial at the front. Originally the finial would be lightly engraved. This wax cast steel trigger plate has an overall length of 4-1/16".

#TR-HP-T: Wax cast steel trigger, fits our TR-HP-P wax cast steel plate. The trigger will need to be pinned to the plate with a 3/32" pin.

#TR-HP-SET: This clever single set trigger is a simple cam roller design, in a plate made for the Hawken pistol. Notice the pineapple finial, and lug for the tang screw and triggerguard, sold separately. Push the trigger forward to "set" the trigger. Also available in a plain “non-set” version, also shown above. This wax cast steel trigger plate has an overall length of 4-1/16".

You may also choose to install a handy belt hook in brass or steel, which also fits the inlet for our SP-EHLB sideplate inlay. The hole is spotted, and must be drilled and relieved with a counterbore or countersink for the lock bolt head.

Gunsmithing Labor Options are a popular low cost method of speeding assembly. Our gunsmith can install the plug (#LABOR-BP), cut and crown muzzle (#LABOR-CC), front sight (#LABOR-DS), and underlugs (2 #LABOR-UL) at small extra cost, with prompt delivery.

#LABOR-BP: Our gunsmith will install your breech plug, in your barrel, with the front face of the breech plug tightly sealed against the inside shoulder of the breech thread, and the barrel maker's name indexed to the bottom flat. Threads are lubricated with Birchwood Casey's Choke Tube Lube anti-seize, so the plug may be removed, even after decades of use. Never remove a breech plug, unless you have a compelling reason. The plug is never removed for cleaning, and should only be removed by a skilled gunsmith, who has the correct tools to avoid marking your polished and finished barrel and plug.

#LABOR-CC: Cut and crown muzzle. Pistol barrel blanks are sold in 12" lengths, while the stocks only accept barrels up to 10" length. We face the muzzle end square with the bore, then crown the bore until the sharp edge of the lands and grooves are chamfered to allow easy loading. This “minimum crown” produces best accuracy, and can be chamfered further, if desired, for faster loading. Specify the desired barrel length, in the comment field of the order form.

#LABOR-DS: When you buy the sight from us, we will remove any burrs, gates, or parting lines, and hand fit the sight to the dovetail slot, ready for you to finish and use. Many of our rear sights are cast with an oversize base, to allow these to fill oversize slots. It is wise to allow us to trim these to a standard size, before installation in a new barrel. We must install the breech plug before installing sights, rib, or pipes.

Front sight slots are centered 1.5" from muzzle, unless your clearly specify another location. Do not embed special instructions within lengthy text of a letter. Place special instructions immediately after your written order for that item, or in the comment field of our on-line order form.

#LABOR-UL: When you buy the lugs from us, we will remove any burrs, and hand fit the lug to the dovetail slot, ready for you to finish and use. Allow our gunsmith to determine the best location for lug. Typically these rifles require three lugs. We require the breech plug to be fitted before performing this operation.

#BOOK-RAL: We strongly recommend Recreating the American Longrifle, by William Buchele. The late William Buchele was recognized as a true master longrifle maker. But his greatest contribution to muzzle loading must be this book. He shares the step-by-step details of his craft. His work has been enhanced by the editors. This book does not assume that the reader is an expert stock maker, but begins with illustrated explanations of the basic concepts. Buchele shows several alternate approaches to most tasks. This newly revised fifth edition includes full scale plans for a carved flint longrifle, and fullstock flint pistol. Over 250 photos and drawings, within 176 pages, 8-1/2 x 11” format, soft cover.

Discussed in Recreating the American Longrifle, Track's underlug staples are authentic, stronger, easier to install, and they remove less metal than dovetail lugs. Not suitable for thin walled barrels, staples work well for keys, pins, or for supporting a sling swivel.

#TOOL-105-P: Align our double punch with a centerline drawn on the bottom flat of your octagon barrel. Strike it to prick punch the exact spacing for our staples. Very handy for quick and accurate staple location.

Lay your key or pin in the open staple. Measure the staple leg extending above your key or pin. Drill your holes exactly that depth. Select a drill bit to match the staple foot diameter (about 7/64”). We recommend using a drill press. Set a quill stop to avoid drilling too deep. Hole depth determines key slot thickness.

#TOOL-105-S: Insert one end of our staple into your hole, and seat it with a light hammer blow. Place the semi-circular slotted end of this tool around the staple’s seated end. Strike it with firm blows, to stake the staple permanently in place. Seat the opposite end, and stake it. Malleable staples allow bending. Stake one end securely, before attempting to seat the other end. Straighten after staking.

#VHS-BMLP: Rifle maker James Turpin covers the basics in Muzzleloader Pistol Building. This tape includes the different steps necessary to build American and European style pistols. Also included is A "Furniture" repair to save a beautiful piece of curly maple. Both flint and percussion systems are covered. This is the third in a series of building tapes by James Turpin. VHS format, 135 Minutes.

#VHS-BE: The Gunsmith's Apprentice Series Presents "Beginning Engraving", taught by gunmaker Jack Brooks. With this video you can learn to engrave in the manner and style of the original masters.

In this presentation the nationally known traditional longrifle builder Jack Brooks teaches the viewer the essentials of chasing, pushing & wriggle engraving. Beginning with the basic tools, Jack shows the sharpening and heat treating of both square and chisel point engraving tools, and demonstrates the techniques used by period American gunsmiths to decorate their firearms. In addition, the engraving of several original 18th and 19th century longrifles is examined in detail. Over 70 minutes long. VHS format.

Click link to view current prices, and options; wood grades, barrels, and furniture.